Puppy Passports
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PLANNING FOR A PUP
  • Choosing pet services
  • Veterinarian prep
  • Groomer prep
  • Dog body language
  • Consent to pet
  • Bringing home a new pup
  • Walking gear
  • Feeding your dog
  • Pups and kids
  • When do I correct?
  • Introducing to pets
UNDER 8 MOS
  • Socialization
  • Potty training
  • Dog Body Language
  • Exercise / Activity
  • Chewing / Teething
  • Mouthing / Biting
  • Attention driven behavior
  • Crating / Confinement
  • Training to be alone
  • Resource guarding
  • When do I correct
  • Pups and kids
OVER 8 MOS
  • Socialization 2.0
  • Potty training
  • Dog body language
  • Exercise / Activity 2.0
  • Attention driven behavior
  • Mouthing/Biting
  • Inappropriate chewing
  • Crating / Confinement 2.0
  • Training to be alone 2.0
  • Resource guarding
  • When do I correct?
  • Pups and kids
Puppy Passports
Home
PLANNING FOR A PUP
  • Choosing pet services
  • Veterinarian prep
  • Groomer prep
  • Dog body language
  • Consent to pet
  • Bringing home a new pup
  • Walking gear
  • Feeding your dog
  • Pups and kids
  • When do I correct?
  • Introducing to pets
UNDER 8 MOS
  • Socialization
  • Potty training
  • Dog Body Language
  • Exercise / Activity
  • Chewing / Teething
  • Mouthing / Biting
  • Attention driven behavior
  • Crating / Confinement
  • Training to be alone
  • Resource guarding
  • When do I correct
  • Pups and kids
OVER 8 MOS
  • Socialization 2.0
  • Potty training
  • Dog body language
  • Exercise / Activity 2.0
  • Attention driven behavior
  • Mouthing/Biting
  • Inappropriate chewing
  • Crating / Confinement 2.0
  • Training to be alone 2.0
  • Resource guarding
  • When do I correct?
  • Pups and kids
More
  • Home
  • PLANNING FOR A PUP
    • Choosing pet services
    • Veterinarian prep
    • Groomer prep
    • Dog body language
    • Consent to pet
    • Bringing home a new pup
    • Walking gear
    • Feeding your dog
    • Pups and kids
    • When do I correct?
    • Introducing to pets
  • UNDER 8 MOS
    • Socialization
    • Potty training
    • Dog Body Language
    • Exercise / Activity
    • Chewing / Teething
    • Mouthing / Biting
    • Attention driven behavior
    • Crating / Confinement
    • Training to be alone
    • Resource guarding
    • When do I correct
    • Pups and kids
  • OVER 8 MOS
    • Socialization 2.0
    • Potty training
    • Dog body language
    • Exercise / Activity 2.0
    • Attention driven behavior
    • Mouthing/Biting
    • Inappropriate chewing
    • Crating / Confinement 2.0
    • Training to be alone 2.0
    • Resource guarding
    • When do I correct?
    • Pups and kids
  • Home
  • PLANNING FOR A PUP
    • Choosing pet services
    • Veterinarian prep
    • Groomer prep
    • Dog body language
    • Consent to pet
    • Bringing home a new pup
    • Walking gear
    • Feeding your dog
    • Pups and kids
    • When do I correct?
    • Introducing to pets
  • UNDER 8 MOS
    • Socialization
    • Potty training
    • Dog Body Language
    • Exercise / Activity
    • Chewing / Teething
    • Mouthing / Biting
    • Attention driven behavior
    • Crating / Confinement
    • Training to be alone
    • Resource guarding
    • When do I correct
    • Pups and kids
  • OVER 8 MOS
    • Socialization 2.0
    • Potty training
    • Dog body language
    • Exercise / Activity 2.0
    • Attention driven behavior
    • Mouthing/Biting
    • Inappropriate chewing
    • Crating / Confinement 2.0
    • Training to be alone 2.0
    • Resource guarding
    • When do I correct?
    • Pups and kids

Dog body language

Dogs are social animals like us, but they primarily communicate by reading and displaying body language.  Luckily, dogs are willing to pick up some of our verbal language (when we train them well).  We can do them the favor of learning more about how they communicate too.  When we understand our dog’s body language, we can feel confident we are understanding when they are having positive experiences, intervene when they are not and better help them negotiate living in our world.

Communication 101

Most aggressive behavior is the dog’s attempt to increase distance from something that makes them feel uncomfortable.

  • If a dog is allowed to retreat and supported in leaving a provocative situation, they are less likely to escalate.


  • Heed these signals as soon as they are noticed.  Stop what is making them feel uncomfortable. 


  • Take a break and remove them from the situation or make it easier for them to cope.


  • These behaviors should not be corrected or punished; we want to keep our dog’s warning system intact.


  • If you feel your dog is displaying unpredictable or proactive aggressive behaviors, seek the help of a certified behavior professional immediately.


A dog may also increase distance from something they are worried about by getting low or withdrawing, humans should stop and give the dog space.  Punishing a dog showing this body language can trigger aggressive behaviors.

  • Belly up isn’t always an invitation to pet.  Many dogs will display their belly when they are uncomfortable.  If you aren’t sure, wait to engage till they get up!  They will choose to approach or leave.


  • A dog with low posture and giving a ‘guilty’ look is offering an appeasement display to try to communicate they are worried, usually in response to your body language or learning history. They may not have an understanding of what was expected of them.


Mild resource guarding against dogs, and often unfamiliar people, is normal behavior.  They are behaving like you would if a stranger asked for your wallet.  

  • If a dog is guarding, the approaching person or dog should move away.  If someone doesn't respond appropriately, an adult should encourage the person or dog to move away.


  • Human directed guarding against familiar people is usually avoided with appropriate handling and responsive to behavior modification training using reward based methods if the behavior is established.  


  • Limit access to high value resources in contexts where your dog may feel this way.


Good dog play will have lots of breaks or pauses and will be bouncy.  If your dog has trouble taking breaks, help them.  Avoid letting them get so worked up they have trouble disengaging or get into scuffles.

Myth Busting: Body language

  • When dogs approach and jump or lick, they are often trying to greet politely or just too excited.  They don’t understand our expectations or are too excited to offer the behavior you prefer.  It is up to us to teach them how to greet people politely.  They aren’t trying to be dominant or alpha.  They need gentle redirection and more training.


  • A wagging tail is not always friendly.  Many dogs will hold their tail high and wag in stiff beats when agitated.


  • Many dogs raise their hackles when they are excited, it does not always indicate anger or fear.


  • Dogs may appear to tolerate or accept rude or provocative behaviors.  Most dogs start with subtle signals when experiencing discomfort or stress in an interaction.  These dogs can escalate to more intense distance increasing behavior when we miss their communication.


  • Appropriate dogs avoid using aggressive behavior.  If a dog is choosing strong corrections, biting or pinning other dogs, stop allowing them opportunities to practice this behavior and seek the help of a behavior professional.  Do not let dogs 'work it out' if they are escalating.

Resources: Body Language

How to train and dog body language seminar - in depth overview of body language

Puppy Passports Index

Puppy Passports Index

Puppy Passports Index

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Puppy Passports Index

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