Training to be alone: 2.0

Set your dog up as if you were going to leave (see crate or confinement training), remove collars or harnesses.

• Alone training goes best when your dog has their needs met (social interaction, mental enrichment, physical activity and had an opportunity to potty outside). 

• Provide a safe, soothing activity – edible chew, food stuffed toy, toys they can chew, food scatter.  You can also feed them meals there sometimes.

• Add visual blocking to the windows if they can see out – close the blinds, curtains or add window film. Seeing out is more likely to cause agitation then entertain a dog that is confined.

• Add calming music and/or noise masking: Through a Dog’s Ear, calm classical music, white noise machine.

• Use a webcam or meeting software like Zoom or Facetime to see what your dog is doing when you leave them alone.  Check in to assess that they are settling ok when you are out regularly over the first several months.

Some dogs will need some help learning to be comfortable and calm when on confinement.

• Put everything in place as if you were going to leave, then spend some time relaxing in the area with the dog while they work on their soothing activity.

• When the dog relaxes easily when you are present, start leaving them there for short durations (seconds to a couple of minutes) while you go to the bathroom, get a snack or glass of water.

• They may move around, look in the direction you left or fuss for a few moments – but then they should settle and rest or engage in an activity provided – when food/chew has run out they should choose to settle.

• Slowly increase the duration the dog can be left alone to 15 minutes while you are still in the house. Then add in leaving the house. Continue to build duration.

• Practice bringing the dog out, then returning them to their safe space for another session when working on shorter durations – some dogs are sensitive to being confined more than once.

• If they are struggling to settle, panicking or look frozen/stiff unable to eat or engage in activities they usually enjoy, return to them.  Back off a few steps and try going more slowly. If this does not work, it is time to contact your behavior professional and veterinarian with your observations for further help. 

On return

• Release the dog from their space when they are calm and/or sitting – you can ask them for a calm behavior.

• Once they come out, stay calm (it is ok to say hi and give some calm pets) and take them out for a potty break. A treat sprinkle on the floor prior to opening the crate can be an easy way to prevent jumping.

• Wait until they have a chance to settle to do high energy activities or high arousal social interactions.

• 'Crying it out' is not a good way to teach a dog to be comfortable in their crate or on confinement. We need to help them cope, not just expect them to figure it out by themselves.  If they are panicking, return and let them out.

• Separation related behavior is common.  Likely, around 30% of pet dogs have some separation related behavior.  Watch for: soiling, destructive behavior, vocalizing for long durations, escape behavior at exits, lack of interest in food or chews typically eaten right away, heavy panting, drooling, restless behavior.

• Separation related behavior may appear within a few days or up to a few months as a new dog settles into the home and bonds with their new family.  Younger dogs may develop separation related behavior in adolescence.  

• It is unlikely you caused a dog to have these behaviors.  Genetic predisposition and lack of opportunity to learn coping skills for being home alone lead to these behaviors.

• Adding another dog will rarely help a dog suffering from separation related behavior.  

• It is best to seek help early.  Many dogs respond well to learning better coping skills.  Reach out to a behavior professional and your vet for support when you are aware there is a problem.  Early support and intervention will allow you at address the behavior before it escalates.

• The use of behavior medication does not need to be a last line of defense.  Early implementation can support a behavior modification plan and allow for more flexibility while working on training.   This can allow your dog to get onto a normal routine more quickly.